THE NATIONAL PSYCHE

Many travellers are surprised when they visit China at the energy and optimism of a people that has experienced tremendous social and eco- nomic upheaval over the past century. Despite political and economic uncertainties, most Chinese are excited about the rapid modernisation taking place in their country and look forward to the future.

With Beijing set to host the Olympics in 2008, the Chinese are eager to introduce their long-standing cultural traditions to the world and be accepted as a modern, progressive nation.

Chinese society, generally speaking, is based on the concept of guanxi. To get through difficult times, the Chinese rely on a tight network of family and friends for assistance and support. To get something done, it's often easier to 'go through a back door' (zou hou men), rather than through official channels. If a favour is offered, the receiver is obligated to return the favour sometime in the future. This keeps the gudnxi system running smoothly.

Another concern of visitors is the concept of 'face', which is intimidat- ing to many foreigners. In reality, the idea of face is very simple. All it means is not behaving in a way that would embarrass someone and cause them to lose status in front of their peers. One sure way for foreigners to make someone lose face in China is to lose their temper in public. Not only will the person targeted lose face, the foreigner loses face as well for being weak and unable to control their emotions. The Chinese pride themselves on self-control and when flustered or embarrassed will often giggle or give an evasive response, rather than deal with the situation di- ectly. Of course, this does not mean the Chinese don't get angry, but the general rule is that self-control in dealing with people goes a long way.

Despite language barriers, most foreigners will find themselves regu- arly meeting locals who are eager to strike up a conversation and, for many, practise their English. Once the initial ice has been broken, many foreigners will be faced with a barrage of questions regarding their age, marital status and career. This is mere friendliness on the part of the interlocutor and not meant to be nosy. It's a good idea to travel with some pictures of your family or some postcards from your hometown. These make great items for conversation and will probably win you a few friends.

In some rural areas, foreigners remain an exotic curiosity and will be greeted with stares, giggles and a chorus of 'hellos' that can irritate even the most tough-skinned of travellers. Generally, this behaviour is not mean-spirited but it can be very unsettling, especially if you are travelling alone. Some travellers respond with a simple wave and smile, others ignore the behaviour. Most definitely, getting angry doesn't help -it s likely your Chinese audience will have no idea why you are getting angry and fits of temper will inevitably create more excitement and draw larger crowds.

The lack of privacy is perhaps one of the most disconcerting things about a visit to China. Most Chinese grow up in small apartments in crowded conditions and are not accustomed to Western standards of squatting next to you. In major cities, many of these types of toilets have been replaced with private stalls (with doors), though they are still com- mon in less developed places as well as bus and train stations.

China is a vast country with many regional differences and you'll find that the behaviour of the Chinese may differ from place to place, ac- cording to custom and exposure to the outside world. This is especially true in the countryside, which can offer a remarkably different view of China than that which can be seen in the cities. Travellers will come away amazed at the diversity of people and places they have encountered.